1. Lay in an adequate supply of feed, just in case you can’t get out due to weather conditions.
2. Make sure hay and straw are covered or are in a dry holding area.
3. Make sure all feed dishes are clean.
4. Pull out electric water thawing devices for outside animal’s water troughs. Check to make sure they’re in good working order and put them in place the day before an expected freeze. Make sure all electrical cords are out of reach of inquisitive animals.
5. Make sure all animals have plenty of dry bedding. Add a bit of rosemary to dog, cat, and other outside animal’s bedding to keep insects away. (yes, they do thrive in the winter months too!)
6. Heat lamp up in the chicken coop.
7. Have an ample supply of water stored for your animals, in the event of a power outage. Include your own water needs in your water storage plan too!
8. Winterize and cover stock trailers, utility trailers, etc.
9. Our rabbits need extra protection. Their hutches are next to the chicken’s run, but are not in an enclosed building. We make sure they have extra straw…and check it daily because they will nibble on it. The hutches are covered with tarps to prevent the cold wind from blowing through. Their nesting boxes are checked and repaired for cracks or open places where wind might blow through as well.
This is the chore that I actually think that I love most. It’s like playing the Pied Piper. Just walk out of the back door, yell “Chicken!” at the top of your lungs, and they all come running. Ducks, geese, chickens, turkeys, cats, and the dogs. I’ve learned to feet the free rangers, the ducks, turkeys, geese and chickens first. Cats 2nd, and the dogs and goats last. If I make the mistake of feeding the cats first, even though I’ve learned to out it up high, inevitably, the chickens will fly up to get cat food. It seems like they ALL like cat food.
It’s a fun walk back to the chicken coop. Pied Piper it is. They all follow in a single line, or sometimes, like yesterday, whichever animal got there first, won! The geese and chickens run with their wings outstretched as fast as they can.
Those outstretched wings give them a little lift and enables them to run faster. Turkeys run like a prehistoric beast from Jurassic Park. The dog, well, she just runs over all of them, It’s like having an 80 pound weimeraner dozer. I can’t tell you how many animals she’s rolled in the past. It’s funny, because the rolled one just gets up and continues on their quick trek to the chicken coop.
I didn’t know that animals could be so much fun. One doesn’t need a television set with a collection of farm animals. Just sit back and watch. Eventually they will have you rolling, laughing. Farm work is hard work, but it’s so rewarding to see nature at it’s best. Enjoy the pictures…
Our Gabby lost a set of twins and we’ve had ongoing issues with her having mastitis. This is information shared from our vet and from personal experience. The following picture is not Gabby, but one that I found online to show you what mastitis in goats looks like. It is something that must be treated, otherwise the soft tissue in the teat will become permanently damaged and kids born to that doe will not be able to nurse her,
Goat Mastitis Prevention
If milk tastes salty, the goat usually has mastitis
Too full of milk will cause milk leakage
Eliminate chapping. Use a good quality teat dip
Use a bag balm after milking. Make sure to towel dry the udder after washing it. Use an antibacterial milking soap.
Milk 3x a day to evacuate bacteria out of the udder.
Infection leads to tissue damage.. the white blood cells can get ‘outgunned&# 39;
Bed in straw over sand. Silica gives no source for bacteria to live.. clean the straw daily to every other day. Strip stalls.
Mastitis prevention: Apple cider vinegar. 1 cup to 1 gallon of water. Add molasses if you like. Milk does with mastitis or suspect of it LAST! And always wash your hands between milking different animals
Teat dip; Dry powdered goldenseal root. Use as you would for any other dip, except it is dry.
Medicine Balls for Mastitis:
Add these dry powdered herbs to molasses.. stir to doughish consistancy, roll in wheat flour and/or slippery elm and dry.
Equal parts, Thyme, Garlic, Rosemary, Oregano, Sage, Mustard. Give
approximently 1 TB every 12 hours for 7-10 days
| Acceptable and Non Poisonous Plants that Goats will Eat
Acorns (in moderation. Acorns do contain tannin, an acid that can be poisonous)
Althea, (also known as Rose of Sharon Angel Wing Begoneas
Apple Arborvita (aka thuja)
Bamboo Banana, entire plant, fruit & peel
Barkcloth fig (ficus natalensis) Bay Tree Leaves green and dried
Bean (all parts) Beets, leaves and root
Blackberry bushes (all parts) Black Locust
Broccoli (all parts) Buckbrush
Cantaloupe: fruit, seeds and peel Collard Greens
Cedar Needles and Bark Celery
Comfrey Corn husks & silk
Cottonwood Coyote Bush
Dandelion Douglas Fir
English Ivy Fava Bean pods
Fern Fescue grass
Ginger Root Grape,, Grape Vine
Hay Plant Heavenly Bamboo
Hemlock Trees (not the same as the plant Hibiscus
Ivy Jackfruit leaves
Jade Japanese Elm
Japanese Knotweed Jojoba
Lilac bark /branches Lupine
Lemon grass Magnolia Leaves green and dried
Mango leaves Manzanita
Maple Trees, leaves & bark (note: red maples are toxic)
Mock Orange Monkeyflower
Mountain Ash Morning Glory
Moss Mulberry (entire plant)
Nettles Oak Tree Leaves
Onion Orange, fruit & peel
Paloverde – needles & seed pods Pea Pods
Peanuts, including the shells Pear
Pencil cactus Peppers
Pepper plants Photinia
Pine Trees Plum
Privet (hedge) Pumpkin
Poison Ivy Poison Oak
Poison Sumac vine Pomegranates
Potatoes (not the leaves as the leaves are a nightshade plant and are toxic)
Raisins Raspberry, entire plant
Rose bushes wild and domestic roses
Sassafras Southern Bayberry
Spruce trees Sumac tree
Sunflowers St. John’s Wort
Strawberry Sweet Gum Trees
Sweet potato leaves
Tomatoes (just not the leaves or the plant stems as they too are of the nightshade family and are toxic)
Turnips Youpon Holly
Yarrow Yellow Locus
Virginia Creeper Wandering Jew
Watermelon Wax Myrtle
Weeping Willow Wild Tobacco (not the same as domestic tobacco)
Aconite Allspice (plant)
African Rue Andromeda (related to foxglove)
Avocado Azalea (ask me how I know)
Bleeding Heart Bloodroot
Blue Cohosh Boxwood
Burning Bush berries Calotropis,
Cassava Celandine (tetterwort)
China Berry Trees Choke Cherries
Common Poppy Crotaleria (aka rattlepods or rattlebox)
Crow Poison ( Nothoscordum bivalve)
Death camas (toxicoscordian venenosum)
Diffenbachia normally a houseplant
Euonymus Bush berries False Helebore (aka Indian poke)
False Jessamine False Tansy, “Fiddleneck”
Fume Wort Fuschia
Helebore Hemp (incl. Indian Hemp)
Holly Trees/Bushes Horse Nettle
Japanese Yew Jimson Weed
Lantana Larkspur Lasiandra
Lilacs Lily of the Valley
Lobelia Lupine Seeds
Moonseed (menispermum) Milkweed
Mountain Laurel Nightshade
Poison Darnel (lolium temulemtum, aka: darnel, darnell ryegrass)
Poison Hemlock Poison Nightshade
Ragwort (senecio) Red Maples
Rhododendron Rock poppy
Rhubarb leaves Spider lily
Spotted Cowbane Spotted Water hemlock
Stagger grass and staggerweed Sweet shrub (calicanthus)
Thorn apple Varebell
Wild Cherry (wilted leaves are toxic whereas fresh and fully dried are not )
note: this is only a partial list. For more complete information, read: David Sherman’s Goat Medicine.
After receiving rather harsh email from a reader regarding rhubarb on both the safe and unsafe lists, I have removed it from the “safe list”. To note, rhubarb contains a very small percentage of oxalic acid which is the culprit behind kidney stones. It also contains anthraquinone glycosides which is also not safe for goat fodder. The following is a link that explains it in more detail. http://www.rhubarbinfo.com/poison. Most of the further research I completed suggests NOT feeding goats rhubarb. Dried rhubarb leaves are the worst. Please refer to this link. http://poisonousplants.ansci.cornell.edu/comlist.html
, We’re striving for self sufficiency in every sense of the word. That means getting off grid, producing our own food, getting completely out of debt and the list goes on and on. I’ve been studying beekeeping and have my own fears about bees, but I know that honey is probably one of the most natural antibiotic, antiviral, antifungal, wound healing, allergy healing and downright good tasting foods available. Bees are livestock and should be treated as such. Am I afraid of bees? Absolutely. It’s a learning curve that I need to conquer before we put in hives. I keep an epi-pen with me at all times, just because I am sensitive to bee bites. It’s been awhile since I’ve actually been stung, but a bite will make whelps on my skin as big as silver dollars. Yet. I walked out to a couple of beehives with my adopted dad, and his bees were passive, landed on me, tasted the salt on my skin and flew away. As I wrote to a friend who has raised bees for decades, this is what he shared with me.
“Top bar hives are common in third world countries and have some fiercely devoted advocates in the United States too. But, as one who has had both, it takes more skill to run top bar hives than the conventional equipment. the modern hive developed by Rev. Langstroth and since fine-tuned by generations of beekeepers, has greatly simplified beekeeping efforts.
If you are desperately poor-and have a fine mentor, you might do better with top bar hives. But, I recommend that new beekeepers start off with conventional equipment if at all possible. when you come experienced with it, and want to go back to primitive equipment, then by all means, go for it.
As sources for up-to-date beekeeping references, I suggest you check out “Bee Culture” magazine and editor Kim Flottum’s blog. Also check out Keith Delaplane. Both are incredible experts and the best at presenting modern beekeeping worldwide. They can be found doing a Google search.
If you are deathly afraid of bees, this may not be for you. The first hurdle is to get over the fear of bees. You WILL get stung from time to time, even if you dress up in a spacesuit. It’s a fact. You will “cook” in a spacesuit, so why not accept that an occasional sting will not kill you and dress to enjoy the work.
A bee veil and some tan Dickies will do the job for most people as far as dress. if the bees are testy on a certain day, the hobbyist has the option to wait for another day to do hive work. If the bees are always testy, re-queen the bee to a better line of worker bees.
And, I believe there are some mild benefits to an occasional sting. It tunes up your immune system and helps fight against autoimmune diseases like arthritis.
It’s far better to start with two hives rather than one. Get your hives ready and get your bees early, like in the last week of March in the South and no later than early May in the north so the bees can get established.
Think of your starter hives as baby animals. You are going to have to feed them until they can feed themselves.
And, learn the ropes before you jump into it. Some people think they can get bees, park them in an out of the way place and forget about them until it’s time to do an occasional “robbing” of honey.
Now, if you rob the bees of their honey, they will starve to death, so learn how to harvest a surplus instead. Learn the ways of good bee husbandry. You would not buy cattle and not expect to learn to care. The Scriptures say that a Godly man is kind to his beasts.
Bees have diseases and parasites that must be dealt with. A neighbor, or a community mosquito spraying can poison your bees (and all the wild pollinators as well). You need to know how to protect them from the use of pesticides in the area.
If your bees do well in spite of neglect, they will blow off swarms in the spring, which will likely irritate your neighbors (especially when the bees take up residence in their house walls), and it will be a devastating loss to you. You wouldn’t raise cattle and let your calves run off. Good swarm management is critical.
I highly recommend getting into a good local bee club. Find who are the best beekeepers and get a local mentor.
Beekeeping is a wonderful hobby and you will get more benefits from pollination than you do from the honey.
Just be sure that it’s right for you. Just as some people should not have pets or livestock, some people should not have bees. If you are going to do it, do it right. Otherwise, try to attract a beekeeper to your neighborhood to get your garden pollinated.
Here are several resources to check out:
http://www.beekeeping.com/articles/us/small_beekeeping/hive_plans.htm Top bar hive plan
www.beeculture.com great beekeeping magazine